The Most Searched Skincare Question of 2020

This year has brought us a multitude of difficulties, uncertain times, and stress. But, one way that a lot of us have alleviated this stress is through skincare research, product use, and at home facial routines! We can all come together on our passion and need for self-care. So, what was so trendy in the beauty and skincare world that it had over one million hits on google? The answer is: Vitamin C.

FYI: This blog is going to be a new “Tara, please cut to the chase” style. We will hit the major key points that you want to know, and I will link more reading materials at the end!

What Vitamin C can do for your Skin

• Powerful antioxidant, which protects us from free radical damage
• Fades hyper pigmentation and brightens skin
• Studies have shown improved collagen and elastin production
• May help decrease TEWL, reducing sensitivity and increasing moisture content
• Assists in wound healing

A note about Vitamin C and Results: We typically equate using a Vitamin C serum with smoother, brighter skin, and this can be achieved through proper formulations and consistent routines. However, Vitmain C alone is not a cure all, as no skincare ingredient truly is. It needs to be added in to your essentials routine and used daily in order to get the results you are hoping for! It also may take some trial and error before finding the perfect formula for your skin.

What Formulas of Vitamin C to Look For

• Ascorbic Acid, also known as L-Ascorbic Acid, has shown to be most effective form of Vitamin C
• Look for a 10-15% concentration & a formula that meets your skin’s needs

This pure form of Vitamin C has the most research supporting its efficacy in skincare products. Unfortunately, this does come at a price of notoriously being difficult to formulate. It is not very shelf stable, so choose products in opaque packaging that are sealed air tight to prevent from oxidizing. Most importantly, keep your serum away from the sun and in a dry, dark place. Overall, no 15% Vitamin C formula can truly be this potent if it is not shelf stable. Be sure to take the whole formula, packaging and brand into consideration when choosing the proper serum for your skin.

Next, there are many effective derivatives of Vitamin C that are commonly chosen in skincare formulations due to their ability to be more shelf stable. These can potentially be less sensitizing to the skin as well. But, the major deal breaker for many is due to possible less potency because of the way it penetrates and is absorbed through the skin. Research is still being done on these that solidify the efficacy compared with Ascorbic Acid.

So, what should you buy?! Really, there is no right answer. As with all skincare…it depends on your skin type and current skin conditions to choose the right Vitamin C for you. For the best overall effects from Vitamin C, a potent formula, derivative or not, is suggested if your skin can tolerate it. This should be from a reputable brand that can ensure proper stability and formulation.

Vitamin C derivatives to look for in your inci (ingredients) list:

• Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
• Ascorbyl Palmitate
• Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
• Magnesium Ascorbyl Palmitate
• Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate
• Ascorbyl Glucoside

More info on how these derivatives perform on your skin

Licensed Esthetician Recommended Vitamin C for different Skin Types

Vitamin C for Sensitive Skin Types

Vitamin C for Normal Skin Types/ Anti-Aging

Skinceuticals C.E. Ferulic, $166 1 oz

*Alternative to this high priced, but award winning Skinceuticals serum would be the Drmtlgy Advanced C.E. Ferulic, $69 1 oz

Vitamin C for Oily & Acne Prone Skin

Vitamin C Specifically to Brighten

Wrap-Up

Overall, Vitamin C is an ingredient everyone should try to add into their skincare routine. Using Vitamin C in the morning before your sunscreen has been shown to improve protection from UVA and UVB rays. It is also an ingredient that works synergistically with Vitamin E, increasing the efficacy (Source). These are of the many reasons why we see it in our products so often, whether it be at the top or bottom of the ingredient list.

My recommendations above are just some of the numerous, amazing vitamin c products that can brighten, smoothe, and improve the skin’s health. Hopefully I helped to answer the top skincare question of 2020 and you can go into next year with the perfect vitamin c in your daily routine!

Sources

Freitas-Seitz. How to Choose the Right Vitamin C for You. 2018. https://www.beautylish.com/a/vzyun/how-to-choose-the-right-vitamin-c-for-you

Macan, Kraljevic, and Raic-Malic. Therapeutic Perspective of Vitamin C and Its Derivatives. Antioxidants. 2019. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC6721080/

Michalun & Dinardo. Milady Skincare and Cosmetic Ingredients Dictionary. 4th ed.

Telang, Vitamin C in Dermatology. Indian Dermatology Online Journal. 2013. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3673383/

Trader & Stevens. Vitamins C and E: Beneficial effects from a mechanistic Perspective. Free Radical Biology and Medicine. 2011. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3156342/

Oregon State University. Vitamin C and Skin Health. 2011. https://lpi.oregonstate.edu/mic/health-disease/skin-health/vitamin-

https://thebrightside.supergoop.com/vitamin-c-and-sunscreen/