How to Exfoliate Dry Skin Types without Hurting your Skin!

Exfoliation is much more than just scrubbing your face- it is a natural process of the skin that prevents dead skin cells, dirt, and sebum build up. This can be done manually or chemically through powerful acids in our skincare products. But, applying harsh products to exfoliate dry skin can make the problem even worse. Follow this guide to save yourself from itchy, dry skin and enjoy the benefits of exfoliation!

FYI: This is an extension of my Dry Skin Masterclass– so check that out to get the rest of your dry skin routine perfected, including hydrating serums and facial oils. If this is your first time here, start with my Skincare 101 Class.

Why you absolutely can’t skip exfoliation

All skin needs to be exfoliated. But the frequency, potency, and formulation of the product you use all depend on individual skin type and condition. Exfoliation does not just clean the skin, but also allows for products to penetrate better. That hydrating serum and oil that is supposed to save your dry skin may not be working as well as it needs to! By slowly adding in exfoliation to your routine, you will notice changes over time. Follow these tips below about what product to choose and how to incorporate it.

What products to choose

So, which should you choose: chemical or physical exfoliation?

Generally, chemical exfoliation is the preferred method by me and other skincare pros alike. Dr. Neal Schultz, board certified dermatologist, outlines the reasons to skip the physical exfoliants: “The outcome of physical exfoliation depends on three variables which are never the same — how much pressure or how hard you rub; how long you treat any given area; the lack of constancy of the physical exfoliating medium, i.e. granules or loofah”(Source). It is much more predicable to use a good quality chemical exfoliant as opposed to a face scrub. Chemical exfoliants use various actives at different percentages to penetrate the skin at different levels.

Ingredients to look for:

Glycolic Acid

Lactic Acid

Polyglutamic Acid

Fruit Enzymes

Mandelic Acid

Strength of acids to exfoliate Dry Skin

In addition, there are products that use blends of AHAs, BHAs, and PHAs. These blends can work to exfoliate the skin and improve various skin conditions such as lighten dark spots, improve fine lines, and smooth texture.

Alternately, you can get a formula of 5% and up to 10%-15% of just one chemical exfoliant. This is a great choice if you know what chemical works best for your skin type. It may take time to know what works best for you, so either option is fine as long as you are staying consistent with the rest of your routine. Be sure your basics of skincare are appropriate before adding or changing exfoliants.

Products to exfoliate Dry Skin:

In my Dry Skin Masterclass, I recommended various toners to use as exfoliation. When formulated correctly, toners can be a gentle addition of chemical exfoliation in to a dry skin routine. Leave-on options are also great choices to incorporate a few times per week, as well as cleansers or masks. They all will affect the skin differently and ultimately should be chose based on how your current skin feels.

Serums– best for people with established routines

$ The Ordinary Lactic Acid 10% + HA, very gentle watery serum that sinks in quickly. Apply before moisturizer, can be layered with other hydrating products. Use on non-irritated dry skin once weekly. Can gradually increase to twice weekly if no irritation occurs.

$ Stratia Soft Touch AHA 10% Mandelic Acid Serum, more gentle option than glycolic acid to refine skin and improve various conditions such as dark spots too. Includes calming chamomile suitable for sensitive skin types. Use once weekly and increase to twice if no irritation occurs. (derived from nuts**)

$$$ Farmacy Honeymoon Glow AHA Resurfacing Night Serum, potent serum with a blend of 14% AHA and BHA to balance skin, includes hydrating ingredients to soothe. Great for non-irritated dry skin, flaky skin, or uneven combo skin types. Use once a week at first and gradually increase to 2-3 times.

Masks– great for combo skin and tight, dry skin

Most face masks that aim to exfoliate are full of clays such as bentonite and kaolin. These definitely do the job for you oily queens, but can be way too harsh for dry, sensitive skin. Avoid these!

$ Julep Night Shift Sleeping Mask, helps hydrate and gently exfoliate ultra dry skin. Use once to twice weekly in place of your nighttime moisturizer. Can be layered with hydrating serums.

$$ Glow Recipe Watermelon + AHA Glow Sleeping Mask, watery and gel-like, smells like fresh watermelon! Gently exfoliates and plumps skin as you sleep. Apply as your night time moisturizer twice weekly or can be used as a wash off mask.

$$$ Dermalogica Hydro Mask Exfoliant, this unique mask incorporates jojoba esters and bamboo to gently exfoliate. It is infused with ultra-hydrating ingredients for all dry skin types. Use 1-2 weekly.

Cleansers, battle the flakiness easily

$$ Murad AHA/BHA Exfoliating Cleanser, if you really want that scrubby feeling, then this cleanser is a good option. It blends biodegradable jojoba beads with chemical exfoliation to gently remove flakes and dead skin. Use 1-2 weekly and not at the same time as any other exfoliants.

$ Bliss Jelly Glow Peel, this cleanser utilizes enzymes to easily remove flaky skin. It balls up, which is kind of gimmicky- but the ingredients of this cleanser are definitely effective. Use this 2-3 times weekly as your exfoliant for sensitive, flaky skin.

Tips & Techniques

Also, if your skin is uncomfortably dry and tight, focus solely on repairing and healing your skin barrier before worrying about exfoliation. Gradually add in exfoliation once a week until your skin becomes tolerant. Flaky skin can benefit more from the physical aspects of the cleansers, but be very gentle, rinse with cool water, and do not use every day. On days off, use a gentle gel or cream cleanser option. If your skin is more prone to redness, weekly masks can help by exfoliating and hydrating the skin at the same time. The straight forward serums work great if you already have an established hydrating routine.

As with any skincare, it takes time to see results and you may need to switch things around before finding the perfect routine. You can easily find other products to exfoliate dry skin using my ingredients table! Search for one of these ingredients in any serum, cleanser, mask, or toner option.

I hope you enjoyed this exfoliation guide for dry skin! What products do you use in your routine?